|Roxanne Chenl on Amarillo Sunset 5.11b Photo: Shaw Tron|
|Vincent wanting To defy laws of tradition 5.10a|
As we arrived in the Red River Gorge, I was sure I'd be crushing all 5.11's and 5.12's in a matter of days. I was humbled to learn that my endurance level wasn't ready at all for this level f steepness. After a two month break from climbing, I got flash pumped on the easiest looking 5.10's. It took me a while to build up the energy to start climbing what I was expecting to climb! Its hard not to get frustrated at first. This is the reason guy's like Arno Ilgner teach us to climb without ego and without any expectations including grades! I guess, this is also one of the reasons why climbers keep returning.
|Cyril working The Grim Reaper 5.12|
|Vincent's Onsight of Another Doug Reed Route 5.11b|
Obviously, the Red is known to be a sport climbing destination above all. But that should not take anything away from some of the incredible trad routes to be found in the area. There are heaps of amazing traditional routes you can find amongst the kingdom of bolts. I recommend the northern book for all the tradies, but you will find some 5 star cracks in the southern gorge including Miller Fork.
|''The Iron formed the strangest mandala-type of rock art''|
- Bedtime For Bonzo 5.6 (North)
- Roadside Attraction 5.7 (South)
- Cheaper than a movie 5.8 (South)
- Arachnid 5.8 (North)
- Autumn 5.9 (North)
- Pall Bearer 5.9 (Miller Fork)
- Blue Runner 5.9 (North)
- Rock Wars 5.10 (North)
- B3 5.11 (North)
- Rebar 5.11 (South)
Now for the sport climbing tick-list, it is a little harder to cut everything down to a handful of climbs. I remember saying ''this is the best climb we've done yet'' after almost every climb. My tip for you is to plan on spending a day per sector and bring a good car to manage the dirt roads that lead to most of the cliffs. Most sport climbers enjoy spending time in what is called the PMRP or the Motherload and Chocolate factory sector. The road is very steep to access the parking areas, so if you don't trust your car don't go down there! But don't worry there is a lifetime's worth of other climbs to try out
Here's a few sport climbs off the tip of my tongue:
Grim reaper 5.12b (Miller Fork)
Ro Shampo 5.12a (South)
Witness the citrus 5.11c (Miller Fork)
Amarillo Sunset 5.11b (South)
Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b (North)
Mona lisa overdrive 5.11b (South)
Breakfast Burrito 5.10d (South)
K.S.B. 5.10d (South)
A brief history of climb 5.10b (South)
|Roxanne on Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b|
|Roxanne chilling on Mona Lisa Overdrive 5.11b|
|Crit on Samurai 5.12b|
Now for a place to stay; the cheapest, most obvious place to stay would be Miguel's Pizza/Campground. They make delicious pizza and offer a 2$ a night stay! It's the perfect dirtbagger option. You can also stay at Lago linda's, It's a quieter more relaxed Hideaway. It's a great place for dogs to run around and great if you also want a Shower... Showers at Miguels also exist, it's just more of an adventure! Finally, there is also the Land of arches which is similar to Lago lindas. It's in a different location, depending on the areas you would want to go to!
|Roxanne Flagging the shit out of Ro Shampo 5.12a|
All in all, for me Kentucky was a lot of fun. The taste of the good bourbon we had down there is one of my fondest memories. The whiskey just makes it an ideal place for climbers! Again on the plus side, the good'ol Kentucky accent wont let any traveler down. It just makes me so happy when I get to chat with the locals!
Red River Gorge! I'll be back!